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Starry, starry nights

Midway between Christchurch and Queenstown is a scenic basin that many people don’t give a second thought as they pass or stop to refuel. But there’s plenty to discover in beautiful Mackenzie Country, writes Ruby Turner.

The lure of the Mackenzie Country

If the one thing that springs to mind when mentioning Mackenzie Country is the Church of the Good Shepherd (that small stone chapel by the lake in Tekapo, where everyone interrupts Sunday service to take a selfie), then it’s time to take a closer look.

The Mackenzie District has Lake Tekapo as its centre point and spans outwards to encompass Aoraki/Mt Cook, Fairlie and Twizel, to name a few. This region is two-and-a-half hours’ drive from Christchurch and Queenstown, so is the perfect midway pit stop when planning your South Island roadie.

Known for its idyllic turquoise lakes, epic glaciers and awe-inspiring night skies, Mackenzie is the place to go for romantics, adventure-seekers and families.

Mackenzie Country follows a classic seasonal calendar. In crisp and snowy winters, temperatures drop below zero degrees Celsius overnight and in the long, hot summer days you will often bake in temperatures around the 30C mark.

It’s time to set aside 48 hours to explore the region to discover some hidden gems.

First on the agenda after leaving Christchurch is morning tea in Fairlie.

Get in the queue to wrap your mitts around a famed Fairlie Bakehouse pie, or if you’re after something a little more deluxe, give Farm Barn Cafe a go.

Known for its delicious sweet treats and stellar views across the hills, this family-operated business is at the top of Mt Michael. The cafe uses local ingredients where possible. After you have had a bite to eat, it’s time to introduce yourself to Daisy the deer, and hand feed some farmyard animals.

With your stomach lined, head across the mainland (about one-and-a-half hours’ drive) west towards Aoraki/Mt Cook. This national park is a sightseer’s dream and boasts the tallest peak in New Zealand (3724 metres in altitude). You can take a number of hikes, from multi-day tramps to day trips such as the Hooker Valley Track, which is about three hours’ return.

Overnight adventures such as the Department of Conservation’s Mueller Hut Route come with spectacular panoramic alpine views. That 28-bunk hut has seasonal restrictions and bookings are required between November and April.

Channel Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and pack your ice axe and crampons if you’re attempting any of the longer hikes during winter.

If you would rather experience these views from greater heights, book in a scenic flight or skydive. A number of tour companies operate from locations around Lake Tekapo, Twizel, Glentanner and Mt Cook.

The alpine climate is changeable, so be sure to come prepared. As always when you’re off the beaten track, merino layers, extra water and snacks are your friend.

While in the area, The Hermitage is a great choice for accommodation. This proudly

New Zealand-owned lodging was first established in 1884.

The site started as a rudimentary cob-walled building used as a base for climbers. A couple of severe floods and fires later, The Hermitage now sits at an elevated point against the mountain, guaranteeing stunning views.

The main building is conveniently next door to the Aoraki DOC visitor’s centre and a number of the track entrances.

Another item on your Mackenzie Country bucket list should be the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail.

Starting at the base of Mt Cook, the trail takes you along the shores of Lake Pukaki. From there, head to Lake Tekapo township or continue south to Twizel, O¯ ma¯ rama and end at the coast in Oamaru.

Stretch this out over seven days, or do a section of the trail as a day ride.

Suggestions for bike hire, luggage transfer and tours are all available via alps2ocean.com to make planning and logistics a breeze.

Once nightfall hits, explore another galaxy by telescope with Dark Sky Project’s Summit Experience at O¯ tehı¯wai, Mt John Observatory.

Interestingly, this observatory was commissioned in the 1960s by scientists from the University of Pennsylvania. They were after a location for a southern station with minimal light pollution, yet not too far from an accessible major city.

Our friends in the United States then teamed up with the University of Canterbury to develop the site.

After some developments in technology, the Americans relinquished their reign and the site is now locally owned and is leased to Canterbury University.

The Summit Experience lasts for more than an hour and a half. Extreme weather jackets are provided, but make sure to wear layers. Even in summer, the evening wind chill can see temperatures dip below zero.

SkyScape is one for the romantics. The luxury escape is nestled in the hills overlooking Mackenzie countryside, a 10-minute drive from Twizel. The team there recently picked up the Small Business Award at the Ara South Canterbury Business Excellence Awards.

Each secluded accommodation pod is constructed almost entirely of glass. The units lead to private outdoor bathtubs filled with water from the nearby Ben O¯ hau Range springs.

Located in the middle of an International Dark Sky Reserve, the clear-skied evenings will blow you away.

Snuggle into your king bed, and you would be hard-pressed to find a more comfortable spot with as many shooting stars, or a moon as bright.

A continental breakfast is included in your booking. If you’re after a quick takeaway meal, duck into Fishtail Restaurant and Bar in town for some Indian delights.

Before finishing your stint in magnificent Mackenzie Country, unleash your inner huntergatherer.

Apart from dishing up some of the freshest salmon eggs benedict in town, High Country Salmon offers a Catch-A-Fish Experience where you can reel in your own chinook (king salmon).

No personal fishing gear is required, and the team will take care of all the messy bits such as filleting and gutting your catch. You pay by the kilo, so it will be just your luck to catch the biggest fish in the pond.

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2021-07-25T07:00:00.0000000Z

2021-07-25T07:00:00.0000000Z

https://fairfaxmedia.pressreader.com/article/281543703951842

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