A ‘sanctuary for lost souls’

Chef James Kenny is back in New Zealand telling Mina Kerr-Lazenby the food scene didn’t always have the ‘rockstar’ vibe it has now.

Chef James Kenny is back in New Zealand after an international endeavour that included stints in Australia, Paris, Greece, and London. In the latter, he worked alongside Gordon Ramsay, at Knightsbridge’s Michelin-starred The Boxwood.

He’s made waves on home soil, too, having set up and run Parnell’s Greek-influenced restaurant Gerome. Now having returned for good, Kenny is set to open up a new restaurant in Albert St’s West Plaza this summer.

Why did you get involved in food?

Being a chef when I started out wasn’t as ‘‘rockstar’’ as it is now. It was a sanctuary for lost souls, adrenaline junkies and selfdestructive types. I suppose I fell into that category, but along the way discovered a dormant passion for creativity and food.

How has your cooking style evolved?

I would like to think it’s evolving or perhaps devolving. The older I get, the simpler my food becomes. This seems to be very much the trend as of late; good quality ingredients prepared simply.

What was it like working with Gordon Ramsay?

Gordon himself is an entity – most people know him for the foulmouthed tyrant that kicks rubbish bins. But he is also a very clever businessman and a three-Michelinstarred chef. Having the opportunity to work for him taught me discipline and respect for the industry.

If you were forced to eat only one specific cuisine for the rest of your life, what would that be?

It would have to be Asian cuisine, even though that’s a broad spectrum within itself. Spicy, clean, fresh, salty and acidic.

What has been your most valuable learning

experience in the kitchen?

Mise en place! The fundamentals of what all cooks live by. All your cooking utensils clean and ready to go, garnishes assembled, proteins marinating, ice-creams churned. Preparation is key to a successful evening.

Who was the most annoying customer you ever had to cater to?

I had one recurring customer that had a list that consisted of 40-plus dietary requirements. They couldn’t eat anything from parsley to tomatoes. We accommodate of course, but the temptation to tell them to bring a packed lunch is there.

How does cooking in the kitchens of Auckland compare to that of restaurants around the world?

Auckland’s food scene has come on leaps and bounds from what I grew up with, and the kitchens reflect this. Chefs are well-travelled and exposed to food trends. We are aware of what is happening around us through social media, and understand what high-end dining is all about.

What would you say is the most underrated ingredient?

Most underrated ingredient has to be lemons. It is an important seasoning like salt, in my opinion. Adding the element of acidity lifts a dish to a new level.