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One-armed pizza maker is top of the toppings

Andy Hamm’s disability hasn’t stopped him from becoming a sought after restaurateur, writes Mina

Kerr-Lazenby.

In a sea of competitors, what does it take for a takeaway restaurant to be memorable? Incredible food? Impeccable service? An attentive chef?

Stumpy’s Pizza, arguably one of Auckland’s most called upon takeaway joints, checks off this trifecta in spite of adversity.

Bavarian born chef Andy Hamm has only one arm, but don’t be fooled into thinking that hinders his pizza making process. With crispy edges and toppings to cater to meat lovers, seafood fanatics, vegans and the sweettoothed (Nutella and banana on pizza is a game changer), his wood fired creations have long been the talk of Auckland.

‘‘I’ve got no problem making pizza,’’ Hamm says with a small laugh. In fact, I am probably the fastest pizza maker out of all the staff that I’ve ever had.’’

Owning and running a joint like Stumpy’s Pizza had been a dream of Hamm’s since his childhood in the German state of Bavaria, on the fringes of Italy.

‘‘It all started just by being fascinated by wood fired pizza,’’ says Hamm. ‘‘The idea of more natural cooking with a wood fire was always fascinating to me, being able to get those amazing flavour profiles from the fire and into the food.’’

Hamm’s career had begun with a handson role in the kitchen – not making pizzas, but making the ovens designed to house them.

It wasn’t until he moved to New Zealand more than 20 years ago that he turned his dough making hobby into a fully fledged business idea – in part, due to the country’s slim pickings when it came to authentic Italian fare.

‘‘At that time we didn’t have any good pizza in New Zealand yet,’’ he laughs, ‘‘there was very little around.’’

And so Hamm bought a truck, applied his building skills to create the kitchen interior, and took his show on the road.

‘‘It received a really, really positive reception,’’ Hamm says. ‘‘People thought it was awesome, just to have the pizza oven on a truck and pizza cooking next to a fire. They were blown away, and it became a real magnet point at festivals.’’

Moving from a food truck to bricks and mortar restaurant is uncommon because its success is a rarity. But Hamm’s Dominion Rd lodgings have become as well known as the Stumpy’s name itself.

Two decades on from that festival debut and Hamm not only has the successful takeaway store in Mount Eden, but he has recently opened another. The food truck still remains, but you’re more likely to

catch it at weddings or high-end private events these days.

If further proof of Hamm’s success is needed, it’s worth bearing in mind that his latest endeavour was created in the midst of the Covid-19 pandemic. ‘‘We have been extremely blessed by being able to open our Titirangi store in the middle of the Covid saga,’’ says Hamm, saying the outpost ‘‘really took off’’.

He’s even considering opening another store sometime in the near future.

Arguably much of the appeal, success and ability to manage Covid is due to the takeaway nature of the product.

While bar stools and a small bench sit in each store, a wood fired Stumpy’s pizza is undeniably best eaten from the comfort of one’s own home. That, or, if visiting the Mount Eden store, taken to nearby One

Tree Hill for a park picnic come summer. The only factor outweighing the convenience is the price, for pizzas of such a high tier the cost is cheap (starting from

$10) compared to its highbrow contemporaries.

With Hamm planning to incorporate more homegrown herbs and vegetables into his creation – and with homemade gelato soon to be added to the menu – it can only be assumed that the quality of goods on offer is only set to improve, too.

It’s not a bad success story for a man who is technically working at a disadvantage when compared to others in his field.

Hamm stresses his disability, one he was born with, doesn’t obstruct his living but only heightens it – the only thing it hinders is his ability to teach others, a job which has been delegated to his wife (he would have to ask staff to ‘‘chop their hand off’’ otherwise, he laughs).

‘‘Hopefully this can inspire other people to do things that they didn’t think they could do,’’ says Hamm.

‘‘Technically speaking, I shouldn’t be able to do any of these things that I’m doing because of my handicap, but I am doing it all anyway. I am turning it around and using it for something good, and others can do the same.’’

‘Technically speaking, I shouldn’t be able to do any of these things that I’m doing because of my handicap, but I am doing it all anyway. I am turning it around and using it for something good, and others can do the same.’ ANDY HAMM

FOOD

en-nz

2022-05-22T07:00:00.0000000Z

2022-05-22T07:00:00.0000000Z

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