Dreams of Albertland

Northland museum celebrates a grand idea

Whichever direction you are going in, heading along State Highway 1 towards Northland or down to Auckland, you will be reluctant to stop in Wellsford.

You would have barely settled into the journey, or your destination feels almost within sight so would you want more than a takeaway coffee?

Be that as it may, you should stop, to visit the Albertland Heritage Museum.

Why go?

Because, 15 kilometres over to the west, if things had gone as planned, there would be a city bigger than Auckland.

The museum, just off the main road, tells the story of persuasive planner William Rawson Brame, the duped settlers, and the eventual failure of this grand scheme to create a home for Nonconformist believers, who came mainly from Birmingham.

Named after Queen Victoria’s then recently-deceased consort, Albertland was described as a haven of opportunity and free thought, and thousands signed up.

In 1862, 800 of them set off in two ships on the non-stop voyage to Auckland, enduring almost 100 days of unrelenting discomfort, but buoyed by the promise of 40 acres (16 hectares) of farmland each.

The museum’s portraits, diaries and personal possessions relate the stories of disappointment when the emigrants, expecting shovel-ready land, found themselves trying to scrape a living in ferny bush beside an arm of the Kaipara Harbour, far from any roads.

No town or houses, only tents: it was horrendously tough for every man, woman and child. Few had any idea how to farm or even garden and, despite some dogged persistence, the dream died. Just two families eventually got to use the pianos, croquet set, printing press and china tea sets now in the museum that they had so optimistically brought with them.

Settlers’ descendants do remain in the area, and an important function of the museum is to trace ancestors for those who may have connections.

Insider tip

It is not all about Albertland. You can see the first Buzzy Bee, made by the Ramsey brothers in 1939, plus his less successful companions Richard Rabbit, Peter Pup and Dorable Duck. And find out the sad stories behind the examples of the ‘‘dead man’s penny’’. There are also intricate model ships, cameras, old groceries, rocks, kauri gum, farm equipment and more.

On the way/nearby

It is only a short drive to Port Albert itself, a sleepy settlement with a long pier, sticking out into what is one of the world’s biggest harbours. Not coincidentally, the general store’s fish and chips are highly recommended. If it is Monday or Tuesday, the stockyards in Wellsford will be busy; otherwise, Te Hana just to the north has a Ma¯ori cultural centre offering a range of experiences and accommodation.

How much?

Just $5 (adults) for all this and volunteers’ knowledge.

Best time to go

Open Wednesday to Saturday, 11am-3pm, Sundays 1pm-3pm; albertlandmuseum.co.nz.

Staying safe:

New Zealand is under Covid-19 restrictions. Follow the instructions at covid19.govt.nz.