Taonga of Northland

On a trip to Northland, Stephen Heard delves into the importance of te ao Ma¯ori in the subtropical region.

Visiting Northland can be a surreal and spiritual experience. Not only for the breathtaking coastal panoramas, crystal-clear turquoise waters and untouched native forest, but for the rich Ma¯ ori culture running through the region.

From Aotearoa’s creation myth in which Ma¯ ui fished up the North Island (Te Ika-a-Ma¯ ui), Ma¯ ori culture in the north extends to the site where Polynesian navigator Kupe first arrived in Aotearoa, and the sacred Cape Re¯ inga/Te Rerenga Wairua where spirits are believed to depart to their ancestral home of Hawaiki via a giant po¯ hutukawa tree.

In the subtropical region you can deepen your understanding of te ao Ma¯ ori by visiting these sacred sites, as well as hear about Ma¯ ori life during European settlement, and get up close to giant sacred kauri.

Manea – Footprints of Kupe Experience

While Ma¯ ui fished up Te Ika-a-Ma¯ ui and his waka became the South Island

(Te Waka a Ma¯ ui), according to Nga¯ puhi tribal traditions it was Kupe who discovered Aotearoa. It is believed the Polynesian navigator and explorer settled in Hokianga around 925AD.

The harbour Te Hokianga-nui-a-Kupe, or ‘‘the place of Kupe’s great return’’, is considered to be one of the oldest settlements in Aotearoa, and the site from where the discoverer later departed to return to his homeland. As well as the breathtaking views across the towering sand dunes and sparkling harbour, visitors to Hokianga can stop at the Manea – Footprints of Kupe Experience.

A welcome po¯ whiri and live performance features descendants of Kupe, and kicks off the guided 75-minute experience. From there, visitors learn about the voyager through storytelling, art, taonga, film and digital interaction.

Take time to explore the region, between the Koutu Boulders, the settlements of O¯ ma¯ pere and O¯ pononi, and historical coastal town of Rawene. Visit maneafootprints.co.nz.

Waipo¯ ua Forest

Thirty minutes south of the historic west coast settlement is a forest believed to host Northland’s largest population of North Island brown kiwi.

Waipo¯ ua Forest, and adjoining

Mataraua and Waima¯ , is also the largest remaining sanctuary of ancient subtropical rainforest in the world. Three-quarters of New Zealand’s kauri trees can be found there. Lord of the forest, Ta¯ ne Mahuta, is the largest, at 51 metres. In Ma¯ ori mythology, Ta¯ ne separated his parents – the earth and the sky – to create light and life for his siblings. His branches still prop up the heavens.

The towering giant is a popular tourist attraction in the region, and is easily accessible via a walking track from the car park. Te Matua Ngahere, father of the forest, is another notable resident, at 2500-3000 years old. Ma¯ ori see these sacred giants as the protectors of the forest. In an effort to prevent kauri dieback, visitors to the forest should spray their footwear, stay on the track and avoid roots. Hugging kauri is also strictly taboo. Guided twilight tours through the forest are a popular way to understand Ma¯ ori connection to the land, and nearby Matakohe is home to the Kauri Museum. Visit teroroa.iwi.nz.

Waitangi Historic Reserve and Treaty Grounds

New Zealand’s founding document, the Treaty of Waitangi (Te Tiriti o Waitangi), was famously signed in Waitangi in 1840.

The Waitangi Historic Reserve and Treaty Grounds is a must-visit destination for anyone to connect with the birthplace of the nation, hear about the signing and learn about Ma¯ ori culture.

Te Ko¯ ngahu museum uses imagery, audio-visual experiences and interactive touchscreens to tell the story of the Treaty. Hear stories from multiple perspectives on the signing, and the unrest that followed, learn how Ma¯ ori interacted in the early days of European settlement and see taonga on display. Across three galleries, Te Rau Aroha museum tells the story of the Ma¯ ori commitment to the armed forces.

Guided tours and cultural performances are a popular part of the Treaty Grounds experience. Guests can enjoy a po¯ whiri before moving inside the carved meeting house for a full cultural performance featuring waiata, poi and haka.

You can also stand where the Treaty was signed, walk through the Treaty House where the first flag was chosen in 1834, and get up close to the world’s largest ceremonial war canoe. Visit waitangi.org.nz.