Hokianga A land apart

Alittle corner of Northland is home to one of the last frontiers of tourism in New Zealand. It is a place few Kiwis or international visitors fully explore. It is wildly beautiful, charmingly rustic – and steeped in fascinating history.

I am talking about the magnificent Hokianga – home to one of the largest harbours in New Zealand, yet firmly off the tourist trail.

The journey to this magical place begins in spectacular style. If you come from the south, as most visitors do, you first need to weave through the ancient world of Waipo¯ ua Forest, home of mighty Ta¯ ne Mahuta.

After a magnificent drive through the kauri forest, you reach the golden sands of Hokianga. Here is what to do when you get there.

A journey back in time

Hokianga and the surrounding region are hugely significant to Nga¯ puhi – the country’s largest iwi.

It is said to be where the Kupe first landed his canoe, and a $9.6 million cultural centre called Manea Footprints of Kupe brings the story to life.

The experience starts with a po¯ whiri before visitors experience a 4D theatre, which includes live music and dance.

You will leave with a new appreciation of Hokianga’s place in Aotearoa’s history, and be armed with knowledge to explore the area.

The lava valley

One of Hokianga’s best-kept secrets is a little-known ancient lava valley millions of years in the making.

Wairere Boulders is a forest walkway with 22 bridges that weave through a labyrinth of enormous cracks and boulders.

The Jurassic valley began forming 2.8 million years ago after a lava flow created a layer of basalt 15-30 metres thick. Over millions of years, the rock has eroded and slowly rolled down into a valley, where thousands of enormous multi-storey boulders now lie. You can explore it all in a series of walks.

A beautiful tiny town

No visit to Hokianga is complete without a stop at Ra¯ wene. The charming seaside town is brimming with rustic charm – colourful buildings even line the waterfront representing its own style of renaissance.

Don’t miss lunch at the Boatshed Cafe, which sits out over the water, with excellent food and coffee.

The charm of rural life

While in Ra¯ wene, catch the vehicle ferry to the other side of the harbour to explore the quaint village of Kohukohu.

The village describes itself as being full of ‘‘musicians, artists, writers, forward thinkers, environmentalists, conservationists, craftspeople and gardeners’’.

It is the kind of place where you relax on arrival. It is a village of yesteryear and nobody is in a rush.

Make a night of it by staying at Historic Kohukohu Villa.

The house was built between 1840 and 1860, and started life as an office for a vast kauri mill that was once the centre of town.

The house has been meticulously restored by hosts Dee and Sean Morrissey, who will even cook a delicious meal in the evening – probably the best food you will find in Hokianga. It is one of the best bed and breakfast experiences we have had.

A journey to another planet

One of Hokianga’s most spectacular sites is across the harbour: its magnificent sand dunes. These are most famous for sandboarding, where you can slide straight off the sand and into the water. But few people realise you can also take one of New Zealand’s best short walks, to explore what feels like another planet.

Hokianga Express Charters will take you across the harbour to the dunes, before pointing out where to walk. It is then a 40-minute journey to the top, with incredible views of the harbour along the way.

The effort is worth it. What is revealed at the top is spectacular, with a series of dramatic formations whipped up by the wind over thousands of years, along with sand canyons. Explore these over a few hours, but be sure to leave only footprints: much of the area is considered sacred.