A roadie under northern sun

Eternally sunny Northland at the top of the country has golden coastlines, great cafes, outdoor activities, fabulous accommodation and views for miles, making it a great place for a roadie, writes Ruby Turner.

New Zealand’s eternally sunny Northland has miles of golden coastlines, an abundance of great cafes, scenic outdoor activities and luxurious accommodation. Congratulations are in order to those who persevere and make it through the Dome Valley traffic and over the windy Brynderwyn Range.

First stop when making the adventure north should be Waipu¯ Beach. Head to The Cove Cafe and grab a coffee and some brunch from its extensive menu. I love the Mexican breakfast burrito, and the homemade pizza is a no-brainer if you are after a quick and casual dinner.

While in the area, slot in a trip to Waipu¯ Caves and check out the glow-worm colony. The caves are a 25-minute drive north from Waipu¯ Beach. Take a torch and watch your footing. The glow-worms can be spotted day or night. Plan your visit off-peak as they won’t make an appearance when there are too many noisy people or stray torch beams.

After your visit to the caves, head back towards the coast and pull into Wilson’s Dam. This fisherman’s spot is located off the State Highway, just north of Ruaka¯ ka¯ on Prescott Rd. The dam was created as a water reservoir for the local area and is regularly stocked with rainbow and brown trout by Fish and Game. No boats are allowed on the dam, but it is a good spot to wander and picnic if fishing isn’t your thing.

While you are in the vicinity, head into the Ruaka¯ ka¯ township. Mosey along the beach or head up the coast to check out the new developments at Marden Point and One Tree Point. Just watch, this is sure to be the new Pa¯ uanui.

For dinner, we highly recommend you pay a visit to Spice Route Indian Restaurant in Ruaka¯ ka¯ for authentic soul-warming dishes.

Once you have ticked the quiet beach towns off your list, continue north to Whanga¯ rei – Northland’s only major city.

Travel to the Town Basin and drop by NZ Fudge Farm for a caramel fudge-infused coffee and stock up on some car treats. NZ Fudge Farm boasts one of Whanga¯ rei’s largest selections of handmade chocolates, traditional fudge, plus other local and imported goodies. Venture further out to the idyllic Whanga¯ rei Heads. At the point, looking back on the town centre and oil refinery, is Bream Head Scenic Reserve and Mt Manaia.

If you are feeling adventurous, tackle the twohour hike to the summit. At the top, you will be treated to views of Marotere islands (colloquially known as Hen and Chicken Islands).

But if breaking a sweat isn’t your idea of a holiday, meander around the headland to explore Te Whara (Bream Head). There are World War II gun emplacements and observation posts to discover.

Whanga¯ rei Heads’ Ocean Beach is another point of interest to add to your Northland bucket list. With golden sands, rock pools and surf-cast fishing, this beach is always popular in the warmer months. On your way back to the mainland, stop at the self-proclaimed ‘‘jewel in Northland’s crown’’, Parua Bay Tavern. Relax at picnic tables in the backyard or out on the pier, and enjoy a cold pint and a bite to eat with sea views.

When you have exhausted your Whanga¯ rei bucket list, head north via Huanui Fresh and The Black Stump Coffee Shop. This family-run business is popular with tourists, tradies and professionals. It is well known for its fresh-out-ofthe-oven roast pumpkin, chicken and rosemary pies.

To satisfy your sweet tooth, I can vouch for the decadent handmade ice creams. The Russian fudge with salted caramel will knock your socks off.

Pop next door to the produce market to stock up on locally sourced fruit and vegetables while you are at it.

Continue up the island along the coast. Unfortunately, the unofficial walkway that leads from Matapo¯ uri Bay over Rangitapu headland to the famous Mermaid Pools is temporarily closed. This is due to the high number of visitors causing ecological damage to the area.

Instead, go for a swim or snorkel in summer at Moureeses Bay in Whananaki. There is also a coastal walk that will lead you south to Sandy Bay in Tutuka¯ ka¯ . This is three hours each way, however the views are amazing and you can detour to the Bougainville Memorial on the north point of Oruaea Bay.

A great way to break up the drive is to experience Northland via two wheels with the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail. This route stretches from coast to coast, 87km from the beautiful Bay of Islands to scenic Hokianga Harbour. With four major sections, it can be travelled in either direction.

Most of the trail is off-road, so you can potter along without worrying too much about traffic. The route takes between one and three days to complete, and there are plenty of options to hire bikes and shuttles to assist you on your journey.

The next major town is Kerikeri. Pull up a seat under a palm frond umbrella at Super Bowl. Enjoy a fresh kokoda snapper poke bowl and a cup of Supreme coffee. Don’t get caught short though, it is only open weekdays.

Stretch your legs by taking a stroll along the Kerikeri River track. Follow the bank of the river through regenerating forest and discover the remains of a historic power house as well as Rainbow Falls. This easy walk covers three-anda-half kilometres from the town basin to the falls. Take a dip in the icy pool and swim under the waterfall post-walk if you are brave.

With all this exercise and fresh air, you will need a cosy place to rest your head. Check out Takou River Magic Cottages, just north of Kerikeri at Ka¯ eo. This boutique accommodation features options from glamping and riverside cottages, to hiring ‘‘The House’’, a luxurious eco-home with an infinity pool and sweeping ocean views. It can sleep up to 12 guests.

If you are really looking for luxury, book one of the many packages for a pampered two-night stay, complete with massages and spa treatments.

Further north, the next iconic spot before hitting the tip of the country is Container Cafe in Pukenui. This is the best stop you can make before the 50-minute drive to the end of New Zealand.

Grab a pa¯ ua pie and a real fruit ice cream. Pet the horse over the fence and have a yarn to the friendly staff working the counter. It doesn’t get much more Kiwi than this.