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Vibin’ in Athens’ hip ’hoods

Michael Lamb discovers that the pandemic had its benefits in the Greek capital, as time and money were invested in rejuvenating some of its quirkiest neighbourhoods.

Afew steps from our lodgings in the Pla´ ka area of Athens is a beautiful rundown villa. It is the sort you imagine tumbling out of the pages of a book – shutters hanging off, masonry crumbling, garden overrun with weeds.

It is impossible not to dream: you buy the place for pennies, living like a bohemian while you slowly patch up the house; all to the amusement of a cast of colourful locals, who rapidly become your best pals. And on warm evenings they gather to drink ouzo with you, out among the vines.

Actually, as we walked the Pla´ ka, this was a recurring fantasy, because the derelict or abandoned villas, mansions and apartments are everywhere. Inquiries to our lively host, Sakis Gerodimos of the Acro&Polis guest house, revealed the story.

The properties typically belong to families who left Greece when times were tough. Now their descendants live in America, Australia or Canada and they can’t agree what to do with the old family home. So it quietly disintegrates, the city’s ubiquitous stray cats the only residents.

Although newcomers to Athens may not have the ambition of restoring a deserted villa, the city is certainly on the radar for creatives, doers and digital nomads who want an affordable lifestyle, a great climate and an alternative vibe.

And, of course, lashings of history. It is the birthplace of democracy, the home of Homer (of The Iliad fame, not The Simpsons), and some serious players are now backing the city to grab the mantle of the place to drop anchor.

Like Leon Avigad, prominent Israeli hotelier and a man with a noted eye for the next big thing.

His company, Brown Hotels, is building five boutique hotels in Athens. That is some statement. And curiously, Avigad believes the pandemic has actually boosted the city’s progress.

‘‘While the rest of the world was locked up, Athens saw an impressive flurry of creativity and innovation,’’ he says. ‘‘There were so many new restaurants, hotels and art venues, an overall blossoming of the cultural landscape. We saw it particularly around the Omonoia Square area, which has been restored and lovingly transformed with a focus on a young, urban audience.’’

‘‘So now we see Athens as offering so much more than a mere layover to the Greek islands; it’s a city that is really becoming a destination of its own.’’ Gerodimos, our host at Acro&Polis, agrees. ‘‘After Covid, Athens has sprung back as a winter destination for Europeans and other nationalities.

‘‘The renovation of old houses and the opening of new businesses are now a daily phenomenon, and there has been some restructuring of the economy around tourism,’’ Gerodimos says.

‘‘Plus the extension of the Metro to almost every corner of the city, ports and other areas is an important factor. I’m seeing Israelis, American, Chinese and others investing, looking to make a permanent home in Greece.’’

It is all helped by the Greek ‘‘golden visa’’, which offers immediate five-year residency (and unfettered access to Europe). You just have to buy a property worth at least €500k or put €400k in a Greek bank.

So, classical ruins and a ready supply of retsina aside, here’s a selection of Athens’ hip neighbourhoods that are the new go-to spots for digital nomads and the globetrotting glitterati, not to mention the savvy traveller.

Exarcheia

The dulling tentacles of gentrification haven’t quite impinged on the anarchic grunge of Exarcheia, so head there to check out the grittier side of Athens.

There are plenty of jazz, rock and blues clubs, and remember to visit the farmers’ market on a Saturday morning.

Stay: The Dryades & Orion Hotel – romantically pretty rooms, great views, a rooftop terrace and sharp prices. What’s not to love?

Omonoia Square

Once the romantic idyll of Athens tourism, the faded glory of Omonoia Square has been largely restored. (Check out the old photos in the Metro station.) Stay: Brown Acropol – retro chic is the pitch at this hotel and it delivers. It also has a great restaurant, bar, jacuzzis, great views and is within walking distance to key Athens sites.

Metaxourgeio

When they cleaned up Omonoia, the druggies and

prostitutes migrated to Metaxourgeio, but now this neighbourhood too is being reclaimed by makers and creators. Eat at Mironi, which has some of the best Greek food in town.

Stay: M&D Luxury Suites – wallet-friendly, nicely appointed suite with a balcony and lovely Athens views makes this the perfect base.

Pangrati

Back on the hip list, there is heaps of arts and culture to absorb in Pangrati – and some beautiful buildings.

Check out the oldest cinema in Athens, the Pallas, which dates from 1925, which shows movies on the romantic terrace in summer.

Dine at Magemenos Avlos taverna is time-warp restaurant that has been a magnet for writers, artists, rebels and dreamers since 1961.

Stay: Athens Green Apartments – eclectic rooms that blend a classic Athenian vibe with modern flourishes in a great location, with a super cute courtyard where you can hang with other visitors.

Makrigianni and Koukaki

Two buzzy neighbourhoods that roll into one. If the

Acropolis looks crowded, head to the Philopappos Hill, a beautiful sanctuary within the city, where among the pines and olive trees, are archaeological sites such as the mysterious ‘‘prison caves’’ of Socrates.

For libations, check out Bel Ray, a former car wash now vintage-tinged bar and cafe. The brunches are epic and, late in the day, coffees are traded for beers and cocktails.

Stay: Cohort Koukaki – a gem of a hotel in a beautifully renovated 1930s building.

Pla´ka

The oldest part of Athens is hardly a rediscovered area, but the scattering of empty houses makes it enticing for some Athens dreaming.

With so many ancient sites, great bars and restaurants, and dreamy lanes to wander, it is the perfect base for any Athens adventure.

Try Yiasemi, a definitive Pla´ ka cafe-bistro on Mnisikleous St, where the tables are sprinkled down steps and the people-watching is second to none.

Stay: Acro&Polis – Sakis Gerodimos’ guest house is in a fabulous location, agreeably priced, with a handful of rooms and a wonderful rooftop terrace.

Psiri

The original home of Athens ‘‘street art’’ and a long history of being anti-establishment, Psiri was ‘‘cleaned up’’ for the 2004 Olympics, though it still has a quirky edge.

Buy a ‘‘bougatsa’’ (Greek filo pastry filled with sweet semolina custard) in Iroon Square, browse the plentiful antique shops or take an art walking tour of the colourful murals.

Stay: L’Avventura Athens – ‘‘hidden gem’’ is bit of an over-used cliche in the travel writing game, but this place really is, with a gorgeous fit-out, a top location and great views (make sure you get a balcony room).

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2022-11-27T08:00:00.0000000Z

2022-11-27T08:00:00.0000000Z

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