Dive and thrive in chill Tu¯tu¯ka¯ka¯

Keen diver Juliette Sivertsen is in her element at Dive! Tutukaka’s relaxed smalltown resort.

There are two groups of travellers who always know how to set a good mood – divers and skiers. Be it on a boat, at the pub or in a lodge, there is always a sense of community, fun and relaxation with these sporty types.

Lodge9, in the country’s diving hot spot of

Tu¯ tu¯ ka¯ ka¯ , encompasses all that good energy.

Run by Dive! Tutukaka, the resort-style lodge is mainly aimed at scuba divers, but also hosts couples wanting a romantic escape and travellers who enjoy meeting others.

Owner Kate Malcolm will be sure to make you feel welcome, and the team at Dive! Tutukaka are on site at the dive shop to advise how to spend your time in Northland.

Packages are available for couples who want to elope, or those for a weekend away with friends and, of course, for dive travellers keen to explore the famous Poor Knights Islands on Tu¯ tu¯ ka¯ ka¯ ’s doorstep.

The place

Tucked away down a driveway behind the Dive! Tutukaka headquarters, Lodge9 has six private rooms, each with their own bathrooms, and a shared communal space for dining and unwinding, as well as a covered outdoor dining area and space for relaxation by the pool.

The lodge relies on natural spring water from its own bore, as well as rainfall. All cleaning products are organic and eco-friendly.

The space

Lodge9 has a low-key resort feel to it, starting as you pass through the outdoor communal barbecue area, up the steps and into the spacious living and dining rooms, and open-plan kitchen. A Spotify music playlist will set the tone for a relaxed stay.

The kitchen is incredibly well stocked, so it is worth spending a bit of time familiarising yourself with it. There’s everything you might need on holiday: a Nespresso machine, a dizzying array of herbal teas, beautifully displayed pottery mugs and plates, all stamped with a ‘‘9’’, as well as complimentary fruit, a fridge full of yoghurt, milk and plant-based options, and breakfast spreads. I also had avocados and tomatoes.

The living area has a beautiful cognac leather lounge suite, butterfly chair, fireplace and large television, plus bookcases stocked with predominantly diving-related topics. Reed diffusers emit a welcoming scent and the houseplants help create a homely feeling.

The front deck is made from the wood of the old Tu¯ tu¯ ka¯ ka¯ marina, leading to the outdoor area and swimming pool, which has a tropical beach house feel. The pool is a seawater/chlorine mix, and has a deep end with a viewing window. Four of the bedrooms are downstairs and the remaining two are upstairs, one with a private balcony.

I stay in the Kiwi room downstairs, which is a king room but can be made up with singles. The room is nicely lit and soft throws add a cosy feel. It has its own ensuite, like all the bedrooms. Products and amenities are all ecofriendly, and each room has its own filtered water tap, mini fridge and Nespresso machine with capsules, in case you prefer to take your first brew in bed before venturing out to the communal areas. Staying here feels a bit like I’m staying at a friend’s beach house – relaxed, authentic and welcoming.

Stepping out

Dive! Tutukaka is on the same property, so you can sort out your day’s dive or snorkel activities easily.

Next door is Schnappa Rock, one of the best eateries in Tu¯ tu¯ ka¯ ka¯ . The a beautiful outdoor area is perfect for a relaxed post-dive beer in the sun, and the inside feels more intimate. Don’t underestimate its rustic appearance – the cuisine is outstanding.

Enjoy succulent duck breast bruschetta with tender pieces of meat on ciabatta, or beautifully cooked snapper with melted butter and israeli couscous, with the beautiful evening glow on the marina in front.

Further down the road is Marina Pizza, where you can feast on delicious pizzas while overlooking the boats in the marina. The pork and fennel, with olives and spinach and a homemade base, is the perfect feed to unwind after a day on the water.

It is the gateway to the Poor Knights Islands, so you will be spoiled for choice for water adventures. It has some of the best diving on offer in

New Zealand, as well as snorkelling, kayaking and paddleboarding.

If you prefer to stay on dry land, head to nearby Sandy Bay Horses for a stunning coastal horse trek.

The food

Expect to wake to the smell of freshly baked bread, and a lavish array of condiments, spreads, fruit and yoghurt laid out on the dining table when you wake.

Some equipment is available in the kitchen to prepare meals, but your best bet is to wander down the road to check out the local eateries nearby.

Another option is to hire the entire lodge and organise for a private chef to come and prepare a meal in the evening for you and your guests.

The highlight

The breakfast.

The lowlight

I was the only person staying at the time, so a bit of company would have made it even more enjoyable, but I can imagine the great social buzz if the other rooms had been occupied.

Essentials

Tu¯ tu¯ ka¯ ka¯ is two hours and 45 minutes from Auckland, or half an hour’s drive from Whanga¯ rei.

From $300 a room night. Includes breakfast. Dive packages available. Visit lodge9.co.nz.